🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.